583. Support: Heater Assembly not working or heating anymore.

You have contacted us regarding the replacement heater assembly is not working anymore. Please read the following to troubleshoot. - Is the heater tripping the GFCI breaker, or it is just not heating anymore? - If the heater is tripping the GFCI, take a resistance reading between one of heater terminals and the heater coil (or to the heater metal tube if the spa is completely filled with water). The reading should be infinity (no reading). If there is a reading, then the heater element is shorted out or there is a leak within the heater assembly. Another way to test if the problem is the heater tripping the GFCI, is by disconnecting the power cables to the heater. The heater may have a power cord or two to four cables connected to it. Make sure to disconnect all power cables to the heater (avoid damages to heater terminals and terminal epoxy that will affect the warranty. If this is your first time disconnecting the heater cables, seek proper instructions from tech support). Then power up the spa to see if the GFCI will stay on and everything else will work. If so, then the problem would most likely be the heater. If the GFCI still trips, the problem can be other parts like the pump, blower, light, ozone, circuit board or internal controller components, loose wiring or the GFCI breaker itself. - Typically a heater that went bad is due to improper installation or due to unbalanced water (bad water, poor water maintenance, using pool chemicals or salt in the spa water). If the epoxy coating under the heater terminals are crack from installation, then the heater element will wear out or cause water to leak through. Improper installation and unbalanced water will affect the warranty. If you see rust, corrosion or chemical/calcium build up on the heater element and heater housing, it's most likely not covered under warranty. - Verify to make sure the heater has good resistance. With the power turned off, measuring resistance between the two heater terminals for a 5.5KW should give a reading between 10 and 11.9 ohms. For a 4.0KW, the reading should be between 13 and 15 ohms. There should be a steady reading. If the reading is jumping up and/or down, the number is off by a lot, or there is no reading, then the heater is bad. - The heater can be burnt out. A spa controller can allow the heater to continue heating until it is burnt out due to overheating or low water flow (also known as a Dry Fire). Burnt marks will appear on the heater element that is not removable. Any burnt out heaters are not covered under warranty. But if the internal heater coils just went bad and there are no burnt marks, then warranty is covered. - The problem can possibly be the main controller is not supplying power to the heater. Have a Licensed Electrician perform voltage measurements. With 220V supply, measuring voltage between the heater terminals should give a reading of 220V+. With 110V supply, measuring voltage between the heater terminals should give a reading of 110V+. Measuring voltage from one heater terminal to ground or neutral is not the correct way to determine if correct power is supplied to the heater. If the correct voltage is supplied to the heater, then the heater is bad. If there is no voltage or incorrect voltage to the heater, then the problem is within the controller box or the power supply. If your heater is within the warranty period and you would like to send in the heater for warranty inspection, contact us for an RMA to authorize the return of the heater. For warranty claims, there are no credit options. Only replacements will be provided if the returned product is found to be defective and still within the warranty period.