308. Support: Heater element not working anymore, burnt out or shorted out.

You have contacted us regarding the replacement heater element is not working anymore. Please read the following to troubleshoot. - Is the heater element tripping the GFCI breaker, or it is just not heating anymore? - If the heater element is tripping the GFCI, take a resistance reading between one of heater terminals and the heater coil (or to the heater metal tube if water is filled). The reading should be infinity. If there is a reading, then the heater element is shorted out. Another way to test if the problem is the heater element tripping the GFCI, is by disconnecting the power cables to the heater element terminals. Make sure to disconnect all power cables to the heater element (avoid damages to heater terminals and terminal epoxy that will affect the warranty. If this is your first time disconnecting the heater cables, seek proper instructions from tech support). Then power up the spa to see if the GFCI will stay on and everything else will work. If so, then the problem would most likely be the heater. If the GFCI still trips, the problem can be other parts like the pump, blower, light, ozone, circuit board or internal controller components, loose wiring or the GFCI breaker itself. - Typically a heater element that went bad is due to improper installation or due to unbalanced water (bad water, poor water maintenance, using pool chemicals or salt in the spa water). If the epoxy coating under the heater terminals are crack, then the heater element will wear out or cause water to leak through. It is also possible that the large heater jam nuts are not tighten down or the heater o-rings are installed improperly (installed on wrong side of heater tube) causing water to leak through and get in contact with the heater terminals. Improper installation and unbalanced water will affect the warranty. - Verify to make sure the heater element has good resistance. With the power turned off, measuring resistance between the two heater terminals for a 5.5KW should give a reading between 10 and 11.9 ohms. For a 4.0KW, the reading should be between 13 and 15 ohms. There should be a steady reading. If the reading is jumping up and/or down, the number is off by a lot, or there is no reading, then the heater is bad. - The heater element can also be burnt out. A spa controller can allow the heater element to continue heating until it is burnt out due to overheating or low water flow (also known as a Dry Fire). Burnt marks will appear on the heater element that is not removable. Any burnt out heater elements are not covered under warranty. But if the internal heater coils just went bad and there are no burnt marks, then warranty is covered. - The problem can possibly be that the main controller is not supplying power to the heater element. Have a Licensed Electrician perfrom voltage measurements. With 220V supply, measuring voltage between the heater element terminals should give a reading of 220V+. With 110V supply, measuring voltage between the heater element terminals should give a reading of 110V+. Measuring voltage from one heater terminal to ground or neutral is not the correct way to determine if correct power is supplied to the heater. If the correct voltage is supplied to the heater, then the heater is bad. If there is no voltage or incorrect voltage to the heater, then the problem is within the controller box or the power supply. If your heater element is within the warranty period and you would like to send in the heater element for warranty inspection, contact us for an RMA to authorize the return of the heater element. For warranty claims, there are no credit options. Only replacements will be provided if the returned product is found to be defective and still within the warranty period.